What the 4C's are for Lab Grown Diamonds
A diamond's cut is more than just its shape; it determines how well the diamond interacts with light to create its signature brilliance and fire. A well-cut diamond maximizes light reflection, producing an exceptional sparkle that makes it highly sought after. In contrast, a poorly cut diamond may appear lifeless and dull, even if it has excellent color or clarity.
This makes a well-cut diamond look bigger than others that have the same carat weight. The brilliance of an ideal-cut diamond is optimal, and its diameter is balanced. However, deeper cuts can make the visual appeal less appealing.
Cutting is among the 4Cs, where cutting is most vital since it most affects a diamond's appearance as well as the quality of that diamond. Cutting is also taken to be most important for selecting a diamond to ensure that its brilliance is enhanced and also ensures maximum visual appeal.
Diamond Cut
A diamond's cut doesn't just refer to its shape; it determines how well the diamond captures and refracts light, which produces its inimitable sparkle. Well-cut diamonds are extremely brilliant, fiery, and desirable. Poor-cut diamonds, on the other hand, can appear dull and dark even if they have a high grade of color or clarity.
The intense radiance of well-cut diamonds also gives them the illusion of appearing larger than other diamonds of the same carat weight. Ideal diamonds have elevated levels of brilliance and diameter compared to diamonds with deeper cuts.
Cut is often considered the most important characteristic of the 4C's. This is because it has the biggest impact on the diamond's overall appearance and quality. Jewelers recommend paying attention to the cut of a diamond above all else.
Types Of Diamond Cuts
The cut quality of a diamond is determined by its proportions and symmetry, which are both significant factors in determining brilliance. Achieving a superior cut requires a highly skilled craftsman. The cut grade is evaluated on a grading scale ranging from Ideal to Poor, where higher cut grades display significantly more sparkle and brilliance. Even for the untrained eye, a well-cut diamond stands out against those with lower cut grades.
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Ideal Cut
diamonds have outstanding sparkle and flawless symmetry. They are cut to perfect proportions for refracting light.
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Excellent Cut
diamonds have exceptional sparkle and even patterns.
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Very Good Cut
diamonds have great sparkle and polish. They are considered symmetrical.
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Good Cut
diamonds have a fine sparkle. They have a reasonable level of polish and symmetry.
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Fair Cut
diamonds have a low level of sparkle and polish. They are not always symmetrical.
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Poor Cut
diamonds appear dim and asymmetrical, with uneven spots on their surface.
Round & Fancy Shape Diamond Cuts
Only round brilliant diamonds can receive an Ideal Cut, since only their facets can be set exactly in place for ideal proportions that maximize brilliance and symmetry.
Fancy-shaped diamonds like oval, pear, and emerald cuts have other facet structures. Achieving an Ideal Cut grade is challenging with these shapes. That doesn't mean they lack quality. The fancy shapes can attain Excellent grades and present fabulous brilliance and fire.
Brides looking for unique diamond shapes don't have to compromise on beauty or quality. Selecting diamonds with Excellent polish and symmetry ensures a high-quality stone that reflects both brilliance and individuality
Grading Fancy Shape Diamonds
Fancy shaped diamonds have the same grades as round diamonds, but gemologists use a different approach when evaluating them. Round diamonds are graded using precise measurements, while fancy shaped diamonds use a more subjective approach that measures the stone's appearance and cut execution.
Brilliance, Sparkle, Fire & Radiance
Any well-cut diamond will have four key characteristics: brilliance, dispersion, fire, and scintillation.
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Brilliance
In a diamond, this refers to its ability to capture, reflect, and refract light, creating a dazzling sparkle. This optical effect is achieved through expert cutting, which maximizes internal reflections and disperses light into vibrant flashes of color.
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Sparkle
Happens when light rays break into vibrant flashes of color upon striking the diamond's surface.
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Fire
Occurs due to dispersion, where white light splits into the colors of the spectrum, producing a radiant, fiery effect on the diamond's surface.
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Radiance
Are the bursts of color that appear when the diamond moves, created by the interplay of fire and brightness within its facets.
Are the bursts of color that appear when the diamond moves, created by the interplay of fire and brightness within its facets.
Ideal Cuts
A perfectly cut stone is referred to as an Ideal Cut diamond. These diamonds are cut in a way that reflects back virtually all of the light that enters them.
To produce an Ideal Cut diamond, meticulous attention to detail is required in the cutting process. In an Ideal Cut diamond, the depth and table percentages, crown and pavilion angles, and the girdle thickness are all carefully calibrated.
This results in a diamond that exhibits a superior balance of brilliance, fire, and scintillation, which acts as a prism whenever it interacts with light. This depth of sparkle can make the stone appear larger than it actually is.
Many Ideal Cut diamonds have an appearance that resembles the shapes of hearts and arrows. The hearts are visible from the bottom, while arrows are visible from the sides. These stones are also referred to as Hearts and Arrows diamonds, a playfully romantic nod to Cupid.
Determining Cut in Lab Grown Diamonds
Lab grown diamonds are cut using the same processes and tools as mined diamonds and are therefore graded using the same system.
In addition to being a more ethical and cost-effective choice, lab grown diamonds also tend to have better cuts. Since the synthetic material they're made from is usually more consistent and has fewer flaws than natural diamonds, it's easier for cutters to shape them into high-quality stones. This means lab grown diamonds are often cut in a way that brings out their sparkle and beauty.
Cut should be your biggest priority when selecting a diamond since it directly impacts its radiance. Clarity, color, and carat weight can all be secondary factors. Remember that a smaller diamond with a higher quality cut will be more alluring than a larger stone with a worse quality cut.
Diamond Color
When choosing the ideal diamond, select a stone with little color for maximum brilliance. Diamond color is graded on a scale from D to Z, which categorizes them into five broad groups: colorless, near colorless, faint, very light, and light.
This grading scale measures the lack of color within a diamond: the less color, the brighter and more radiant the stone looks. Although there is a shade of the rainbow for every type of diamond, colorless, or white diamonds are the most in demand and expensive.
The jewelers recommend the least amount of color for a classic and timeless look. However, those who appreciate a hint of color can explore various options without concern. Since color affects a diamond's overall value, it is often regarded as the second most important of the 4Cs.
The Diamond Color Scale
A colorless diamond appears bright white, whereas lower-grade diamonds may display a slight yellowish hue due to the presence of nitrogen. Completely colorless diamonds are considered chemically pure and structurally flawless, while impurities and imperfections contribute to color variations.
For the untrained eye, distinguishing between color grades can be difficult. Typically, a difference is only noticeable if two diamonds are at least two color grades apart, and even then, visibility depends on the diamond's positioning. When viewed face-up, a diamond will appear mostly colorless, while slight color traces may be more noticeable from the side profile. However, a ring setting can help conceal these subtle color differences.
How To Set Diamonds According To Color
The metal you choose for your diamond setting can influence the color of your diamond. Make sure your diamond looks its best by selecting the most flattering type of metal.
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Colorless diamonds pair well with platinum, palladium, or white gold. The pure whiteness of colorless diamonds creates a cool tone that looks best with silvery metals. Choosing a cool metal will accentuate the diamond's purity of color.
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Near colorless diamonds pair well with white, yellow, or rose gold. Mostly white, these versatile diamonds look great against any type of gold setting. The warm colors of yellow and rose gold will do a good job of making any color traces less noticeable.
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Faint colored diamonds pair well with yellow or rose gold. The warmth of yellow and brown undertones in faint colored diamonds looks best against equally warm metals.
Fancy Colored Diamonds
Those who crave the color and vibrancy of richly colored diamonds might enjoy the sparkle of fancy colored diamonds.
Diamonds naturally come in almost every color: yellow, blue, pink, green, purple, red, orange, gray, and even black. Fancy colored diamonds are rarer than colorless diamonds, which may add to their appeal. This rarity also extends to lab grown diamonds. There is a limited supply of colored lab grown diamonds; it's estimated that only 1% of lab grown diamonds are colored.
Color rarity is the determining factor of a fancy colored diamond. The stronger and purer the color is, the more valuable the diamond will be. The most valuable colored diamonds are pink and blue. Yellow diamonds are not as rare, but they are still treasured for their warmth and golden tones. Fancy colored diamonds still have a grading scale, but they are different from colorless diamonds. The system rates their hue, tone, and saturation.
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Hue defines the main color of the stone
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Tone evaluates the lightness or darkness of the stone
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Saturation describes the intensity of the hue
The stone's color level is determined by the tone and saturation, which is then graded on a scale that runs from lightest to darkest. The exact scale is:
Lightest
Faint
Very Light
Light
Fancy Light/p>
Fancy
Fancy Intense
Fancy Vivid
Fancy Dark
Fancy Deep
The diamonds are then described with their hue. For example, a light blue diamond would be called a Fancy Light Blue Diamond, while a vivid pink diamond would be called a Fancy Deep Pink Diamond.
Fancy Deep diamonds are considered the most valuable, but those who prefer pastel shades can find soft colors that fit their aesthetic in the light range.
Color In Lab Grown Diamonds
The creation process of lab grown diamonds mimics nature, which means quality variations can still occur. This includes color. Lab grown diamonds should be exactly treated like mined diamonds when it comes to color grading.
The diamond color you choose should ultimately come down to personal preference. Colorless or Fancy Deep may be the most valuable diamonds on paper, but a faint colored diamond will be the most valuable to you if it's what you find the most beautiful.
Diamond Clarity
A diamond's clarity refers to the presence of impurities on and within the stone. Even when grown in a lab, tiny imperfections might be visible. These are called flaws or inclusions. They form during the growing process and are unique to each stone. The term "eye clean" refers to diamonds whose inclusions generally cannot be seen without magnification and are typically graded SI or higher on the clarity scale.
Clarity impacts the stone's ability to let light pass through the stone. Inclusions can cause dispersion blockages, which affect the diamond's overall brilliance and sparkle. The fewer inclusions a diamond has, the more rare and valuable it will be considered. Flawless diamonds, or stones with no imperfections, are the most prized.
If you want a diamond that maintains its brilliance without any visual distractions, select a gem without inclusions. To ensure the highest likelihood that your diamond will be completely free from imperfections visible to the naked eye, opt for diamonds graded "VS1" or higher.
Diamond Clarity Grades
All diamonds are graded based on their clarity. Grading is determined by closely examining the diamond under 10X magnification. A gemologist will note the quantity, relief, and placement of inclusions to identify the clarity grade.
The clarity grading scale runs from Flawless (FL) to Included (I3). Some grades have different categories within the grade, like Very Very Slightly Included 1 and Very Very Slightly Included 2. The higher the number after grading, the more inclusions will be visible on and within the diamond.
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Flawless (FL). No imperfections or inclusions on the diamond's surface. This is the rarest and most valuable type of diamond.
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Internally Flawless (IF). No visible imperfections or inclusions on the diamond's surface, even under magnification. Although the diamond appears flawless, it still may have very minor inclusions that are difficult to see.
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Very Very Slightly Included 1 (VVS1) & Very Very Slightly Included 2 (VVS2). No visible imperfections or inclusions to the untrained eye. Minor inclusions may be visible under magnification.
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Very Slightly Included 1 (VS1). Small imperfections or inclusions may be visible under close inspection.
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Very Slightly Included 2 (VS2). More minor imperfections or inclusions may be visible.
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Slightly Included 1 (SI1), Slightly Included 2 (SI2) & Slightly Included 3 (SI3). Small imperfections and inclusions are visible, even to an untrained eye.
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Included 1 (I1), Included 2 (I2) & Included 3 (I3). Imperfections and inclusions are clearly visible.
The most prized diamonds are called “eye clean diamonds.” This term refers to diamonds whose inclusions cannot be seen without magnification. They are usually graded VS1 or higher.
Clarity In Diamond Shapes
The shape of a diamond can affect its clarity. This is because certain shapes hide imperfections better than others.
Brilliant cut shapes, such as round and princess, are better at hiding imperfections than step-cut shapes, such as emerald and asscher. The large, open tables of step-cut shapes make inclusions more visibly noticeable, while the high level of facets in a brilliant cut makes inclusions more difficult to spot. This doesn't mean you need to avoid step-cut diamonds. However, you should choose step-cut stones with a higher clarity grade.
Generally, the best diamond shapes for hiding inclusions are brilliant cuts in round, cushion, oval, radiant, or pear forms. You can choose diamonds with clarity grades as low as SI1 or SI2 with these shapes.
Pay close attention to the clarity grade if you're looking for a diamond with a clean sparkle and impeccable brilliance. Any brilliant cut diamond with a grading of VVS2 or higher should meet your needs, but look for VS2 or higher for step-cut diamonds.
Diamond Clarity & Color
All 4Cs work together in harmony, but clarity and color can have an even more direct correlation with each other. Jewelers recommend balancing color and clarity when shopping for a diamond
If you're shopping for a diamond in the D-F color range, look for one with a clarity grade of VS2 or higher
If you're shopping for a diamond in the G-I color range, look for one with a clarity grade of SI or higher
Determining Clarity in Lab Grown Diamonds
Lab grown diamonds tend to have higher clarity grades than mined diamonds because they are grown in controlled lab environments. However, this doesn't mean that they are all flawless. Even lab grown diamonds can have imperfections that affect their clarity grade.
Small metallic inclusions are possible within lab grown diamonds. Since they are created using high pressure and high temperature, remnants from the metallic flux that transports carbon gas to the diamond seed can be found within the diamond. These remnants are usually only visible under magnification, but they do count as inclusions. Other lab grown diamonds are created using chemical vapor deposition, which can cause microscopic amounts of graphite to form around the diamond seed as it grows.
Lab grown diamonds follow the same clarity grading scale as mined diamonds, so you can look for diamonds with the same ratings as mined diamonds to find your perfect sparkle.
Diamond Carats
Carat is the unit of measurement for the physical weight of diamonds and is one of the most objective measurements of the Four Cs for determining the value of a diamond. One carat is equal to 200 milligrams or 1/5 of a gram. Once the weight in milligrams is determined, the diamond is subdivided into 100 points. This ensures an ultra-precise measurement to the hundredth decimal place. Typical diamond weights range from 0.25 carats to 5 carats.
Carats are one of the most objective measurements of the 4Cs for determining the value of a diamond. It directly corresponds to the weight of a diamond, while other Cs are more subjective. The carat weight of a diamond determines how big it is. Up to 2/3 of the total carat weight may be lost when raw diamonds are cut and polished into finished diamonds.
The name "carat" derives from carob, the popular chocolate substitute. Carob seeds were the standard measurement tool for diamonds up until the 20th century. Their small size and consistent shape made them an effective counterweight for diamonds.
Carats and Diamond Size
It’s important to remember that carats only determine the weight of a diamond, not its size. Shape, weight distribution, and cut quality also impact a diamond’s size. This means that two diamonds of the same carat weight can have different sizes.
However, a high carat doesn’t necessarily equate to a better diamond. A diamond with a small carat and high-quality cut will be more brilliant and beautiful than a diamond with a large carat and poor-quality cut. Most loose diamonds available for sale are one carat or less. The average engagement ring is also less than a carat.
High-quality diamonds with a high carat are very valuable. High-quality gems are harder to find in large quantities of rough, which means a single 2 carat diamond will cost more than two 1 carat diamonds of the same quality.
Carats & Diamond Appearance
Although we are often taught that bigger is better, this is not always the case with diamonds. Jewelers recommend paying more attention to the surface area of a diamond than its carat size, since it's the more visible characteristic.
A diamond will increase in weight more than it increases in surface area. For example, a 0.50 carat diamond has a surface area of 5.1mm, while a one carat diamond has a surface area of 6.5mm. That's only a 27% increase in surface area, despite having double the weight.
Additionally, differences in carat sizes can appear very minimal to the untrained eye. A 0.25 carat diamond will be noticeably smaller than a 2 carat diamond, but the difference in size between a 0.90 carat and a 1 carat diamond will not be substantial.
Carat & The Other Cs
Some diamonds are cut with an emphasis on carat size, but they often sacrifice sparkle and symmetry. Pay attention to the cut as well as carat to ensure you get a beautiful diamond in the size you want.
Note that the larger a diamond is, the more inclusions will be noticeable. Cut should always be a high priority, but you'll also want to pay attention to clarity grades with a larger stone.
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0.25 - 0.50 carat diamonds. These weights hide inclusions well, so you can choose lower clarity grades and put a higher emphasis on cut and color. Look for a diamond with a Very Good or Ideal cut grade.
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0.75 carat diamonds. This weight still hides inclusions, but they will start to become more apparent. Choose a clarity grade of SI1 or SI2 and a cut grade of Very Good to Ideal.
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1 carat diamonds. Inclusions will become more apparent but cut should still be your priority. Look for a stone with an Ideal or Excellent cut. If you're choosing a design with a halo or side stones, put a higher emphasis on color and clarity grades.
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1.25 - 1.5 carat diamonds. Prioritize cut and clarity. Look for stones with a clarity grade of VS2 or higher.
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2 carat, 3 carat & 4 carat diamonds. Look for eye clean stones with a VS1 clarity grade or higher.
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5 carat. Everything will be on display with a diamond this heavy. Look for one with Excellent cut, symmetry, and polish.
Carat Vs Karat
A carat should not be confused with karat, the term given for determining gold purity in jewelry. British visitors and expats may have a tougher time distinguishing the two since carat is used for both diamond weight and gold content in the UK.
Both terms are relevant to diamond ring shopping since the piece will have carats and karats. For example, a 1ct diamond ring in 14K gold means that the ring's diamond weighs 1 carat and is set in 14karat gold.
Determining Carat in Lab Grown Diamonds
Lab grown diamonds can reach large carat weights, just like mined diamonds. Some lab grown diamonds have even weighed a whopping 15 carats!
Many shoppers love choosing lab grown diamonds to get more value for their money. Lab grown diamonds are more affordable than mined diamonds, which means shoppers can comfortably choose larger carat weights. They're also more ethical because they are conflict-free, making them ideal for socially-conscious buyers.
Although size and weight play important roles in a diamond's appearance, remember that a high carat should not be the determining factor when choosing a diamond. If you are shopping for lab grown diamond engagement rings, necklaces, earrings and other jewelry, look for a diamond with a carat weight that complements its cut, clarity, and color and not the other way around.